Overbust Corset #1 (part 1)

butterick b5662If this is your first visit to my blog, you might want to also read my first corset post to get a little better idea about hobby corset making.  (You can also find Part 2 of this corset here, and Part 3 here.)

I’m working on my second corset, a modern overbust style from Butterick, # B5662.  It has more of a trim hourglass shape rather than a Victorian cone shape.  I’m modifying the pattern to change the front lacing.  Instead of grommets it will have a hidden heavy duty zipper, and in front of the zipper will be flaps with functional buttons down the front.  I’m also modifying the hem so that it resembles a waistcoat vest.  You can see Part 2 of this corset here, and the finished garment here.

overbust corset 1a 1522160_10152219363380337_1723954937_n 1526787_10152219363580337_1532351871_nI made a mock-up from white cotton duck canvas to check the fit.  I cut the pattern from the standard size 12, with no alterations. The grommets at the back are a simple twill belt fabric with built-in grommets.  I wouldn’t recommend them for a finished corset, but they are helpful when making a mock-up. The fit is pretty good, even though there aren’t any bones in it yet.

overbust corset 1 panelsI’ve chosen a really nice pinstripe suiting fabric.  It’s a dark charcoal gray with pale pink stripes, and an alternating charcoal braided stripe that’s slightly textured. Very classy.  Now this fabric has some stretch to it, so before I seamed it to the cotton duck canvas strength layer, I fused the two layers together.  The seams are lock stitched with quilting thread, creating a very strong seam.  This is a heavy fabric so the weight of it will be different than my previous corset.

boning channels overbust corset 1You can see in this photo the same cotton duck fabric that I used for my underbust corset #1.  In this overbust I’m using it as the strength layer inside the corset. The seam allowances are edged with seam binding to prevent the fabric from raveling, and then the seam allowance is stitched down to create the boning channels.  I’ll be doing a waist tape of white twill to strengthen the waist, and a nice green polished cotton for the lining.

overbust corset 1Here’s the next fitting with the pinstripe fabric.  I’m very happy with it so far! It’;s really coming to look like what I wanted.  My goal is to have a vest that has bones in it, which is wearable as modern day clothing.  The back will still have the lacing but there will be a modesty panel of pinstripe that floats on the laces to give a nice background to it.

I ran into a snag with the boning, though.  The bust channels are curved, and so the plastic boning is twisting in the channels there.  So while I had known I would be investing in steel boning eventually, this corset shape forced my hand.  I’m waiting on my order in the mail now, and then I’ll be cutting and tipping the spiral steel bones for that section of the corset.

Stay tuned for Part 2.


2 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Trackback: Overbust Corset #1 (Part 2) | Fimo Fanatic: Charlene's Blog
  2. Trackback: Overbust corset #1 (Part 3) | Fimo Fanatic: Charlene's Blog

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