I finished this corset-turned-waistcoat for my Steampunk costume for Halloween. (You can see Part 1 of this project here, and Part 2 here.) I used Butterick 5662 as my pattern – I chose it for the modern hourglass silhouette. It’s a recently published pattern that doesn’t have many online reviews, but I really like it. There is a gentle waistline without too dramatic an indentation, plenty of room for the ribcage to expand, and isn’t so short at the bottom hemline that belly chub squishes out.
Along with sewing this corset, I also made a blouse, hat, fingerless gloves, and bejeweled lace collar. I wore it with the skirt that I’d made for my Renaissance costume and the Steampunk-esque shoes I found at Sears.
Things I’ll do differently next time:
- Where it sits on my natural waist, it pushes the rest of the corset upward, creating space above the shoulder straps. I’m short-waisted and should have adjusted the pattern down to account for that.
- Where the points are in front, it’s too long and digs into my lap when I sit. I should have adjusted the waist-to-hem length or made the points shallower.
- Where the laces meet in back, it’s too easy to completely close the corset, so I’ll have to make the back center panels narrower. I also need to make the modesty panel lace through the laces at two points instead of only one (it shifted on me and took the laces with it).
- Where the bottom hem is on the sides, I’d like it to come lower on my hip next time, to make it a longline corset. Of course I’ll have to adjust the hip spring for that, but it’s fine.
I’m already planning a new corset using this pattern. It’ll be an overbust without the straps, and my plan is for it to be a corset I’ll wear under clothing instead of on top.