Corset #3, Butterick 5662 (part 1)

Okay, so I’m starting a new corset.  Using the same pattern as I did with the Steampunk overbust corset.  It’s Butterick 5662, a modern hourglass silhouette that I’m really liking.

Initially I’d thought I wanted this corset to be curvier than the last one, with more hip spring (the measurement between the corseted waist and the iliac crest –the top of the hip bone).  So I’d ignored the good advice about using Big 4 corset patterns:  go down 4 sizes from your measured size when making these corsets because they still have built-in ease.  With a properly fitted corset you need negative ease.

But silly me, not thinking straight I figured I needed to make a bigger size so that I had more room in the ribs and hips.  That was a big mistake.  The first mock up was so huge that it barely stayed up on my torso, even laced fully closed.  The second mock-up, after I’d removed 4 panels from the back of the corset, barely gave any reduction at all.

So I learned my lesson well, and returned to the advice of experienced corset makers:  When using a Big 4 pattern (Butterick, McCall’s, Simplicity, or Vogue):  go down 4 sizes.  And that’ll get you close.

Here’s my third mock-up of this corset, altered to have the top hem come just below the bust, and the bottom hem to come below my hip to my lap.  Much, much better fit, although it’s still a trifle too big because I can completely lace it closed in the back.  And the waist reduction here is only a modest 1.5 inches.  I’m looking for a reduction of 4-6 inches.  So still need to do some adjustments to the seam allowance.  But it’s progress!
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